Shawn-Knight.net

False Color Infrared Photography How-To

I have posted quite a few of my infrared pictures here on this blog. Infrared photography, or more specifically, false color infrared photography, is very difficult to master. A lot of my early work didn’t turn out well. It truly was a matter of trial and error for me. So today, I will show you exactly how I do it.

It is important to first know a little bit about infrared light. Infrared refers to the spectrum of light that is beyond the visible light spectrum (”invisible light”) that we normally see. In order to get this infrared light into a photo, you must use a special lens filter that filters out almost all of the “visible” light.

null

This is the Hoya R72 IR filter that I used with my old Nikon D50 DSLR. As you can see, the filter glass is black and lets very little light through.

Now that you have the camera, lens and filter, you will also need a tripod. As for software, you will need Photoshop, this False Colors Photoshop Action and Bibble Lite 4.9, available from Bibble Labs. I found the false colors action online last year but was not able to locate it now, so credit is given to the original creator.

Now, you must wait for just the right time of year. The best time of the year to shoot IR photos is in the dead of summer on a bright, sunny day in order to soak up the most IR rays. Camera settings will make or break your infrared photos. Again, most of this was trial and error on my part, and may or may not work for you and your camera.

First, you will need to set a custom white balance. Attach the IR filter, then do a custom white balance sample while pointing the camera at a section of green grass.

Now, you need to find a subject for your photo. Trees, grass and the sky are the best candidates for infrared. The chlorophyll in the green leaves and grass really makes images “pop” and the sky (big puffy clouds are a plus) gives a nice deep contrast to the bright whites we are hoping to achieve.

Once you have selected a subject, you need to get the camera set up on the tripod. Some people compose the picture before adding the IR filter; not me. I just aim and shoot, and so far it has worked well for me.

null

This is the sample photo that we will be working with today. This picture was taken at .6 second shutter speed, f/8 aperture, 200 ISO at 18mm focal length in RAW mode. The original picture will turn out with a heavy reddish tint. This is perfectly normal.

null

Next, you will want to open the file in Bibble Lite 4.9. Make sure everything on the right side is “off”, then adjust the “New WB” to Incandescent. Now, save the photo as a .jpg and open it with Photoshop.

null

Once in Photoshop, select Layer - New Adjustment Layer - Levels. Click OK then click the Auto button, which will give you something like you see above. Now, run the false colors action.

null

If your original IR image was taken at just the right settings, you should get something like you see above.

null

Now, just tweak the colors to your linking using the Selective Color option.

null

Another popular option with infrared images is black and white. B&W IR images look great as well, but personally I like the colored version more.

With the right equipment and a bit of trial and error, you should be well on your way to shooting some great infrared images of your own!

Here are a few more related posts:

Photo-A-Day: Day 24
Miscellaneous Ramblings 3/24/2008
Photo-A-Day: Day 3

Comments

  1. derek Said,

    Shawn, very nice post and tutorial. I’m starting to seriously consider an investment in a DSLR and will be sure to try this out if I get a new camera.

    Right now I am trying to research cameras to determine what is a good option for a reasonable price. I doubt I will be able to afford the top of the line stuff so I am trying to find the most value for my money.

  2. Shawn Knight Said,

    Derek, I have heard a lot of good things about the Nikon D40. Its their budget DSLR, the replacement to the popular D50.

    The camera itself isnt too expensive but you will want to carefully select the right lens that you want. Those can get expensive quick!

  3. derek Said,

    Shawn, thanks for the feedback on the camera. The two primary brands that I was looking at were the Nikon line and Canon line of DSLR cameras.

    Do you know how any of the other brands compare, such as Olympus? I’ve got quite a bit of research to do in the coming days/weeks to try and determine what works well for me.

    But you bring up a good point that the lens is just as important as the actual body of the camera.

  4. Shawn Knight Said,

    I have owned a few Olympus point-and-shoot cameras in the past. They worked well… until I got my first Nikon point-and-shoot. IMO, Nikon is the best camera brand around.

    I have a buddy that has a Canon DSLR (quite a bit more expensive than my Nikon)… it could be the lens he has or just the camera, but I’ve never really been impressed with his shots compared to mine when we shoot together.

    Like anything else, you will have ‘fanboys’ that lean one way or the other. I guess I lean towards Nikon :)

  5. derek Said,

    In much of my reading and just my personal opinion, I would likely lean towards either a Canon or Nikon.

    I was talking to someone tonight that owns a Nikon D80 and he loves it. He mentioned that someone he knows found a package deal on the D40 and the price sounded very attractive.

    Since I don’t really have any lenses right now, I don’t have a preference one way or the other but just want to get a quality camera. Thanks for your feedback Shawn!

  6. Jeff Said,

    I own two Sony DSLRs (Cybershot DSC-H5 and DSC-F707 with Night Shot). The H5 is incredibly sensitive to IR and have taken some great shots with a Hoya R72 and ND4 filters.

    Anyhow…the question I have is for false color post processing with the Sony cameras…neither or which creates RAW images…only jpegs. Will the False Colors Photoshop Action work with my H5? If not, is there an alternate method of false color post processing I need to do for the non-RAW images from Sony?

    Thanks,
    Jeff

  7. Shawn Knight Said,

    Hey, yeah you should still be able to use the Action regardless of if its raw or not. For me, raw simply made it easier to adjust some other settings prior to running the action.

  8. tom Said,

    [...] more on the Health Benefits of Saunas Blog Posted in Home [...]

  9. Fellowes Paper Shredders Said,

    These Destroyit Shredders are compact enough to keep beside the desk and sleekly styled for any decor, yet all have the same high-grade steel cutting heads and 10-year warranty as the largest Destroyit shredders. Every model takes staples and paper clips.

  10. brett maxwell - wedding photographer Said,

    have you tried with a camera converted to IR?

  11. Shawn Knight Said,

    No I haven’t, but I’ve heard it’s much easier that way. I have since changed cameras and haven’t bought a new IR filter though.

  12. David Waller Said,

    Great tutorial Shawn …thanks! Correction: ” The chlorophyll in the green leaves and grass really makes images “pop”.” Its not the chlorophyll or the colour that ‘pops.’ Deciduous trees are captured very white in IR photos but conifers much less so. The whiteness of the leaves in an IR photos depends not on the chlorophyll but on their IR reflectivity. Deciduous leaves are highly IR reflective because they contain large numbers of microscopic air pockets. The needles of conifers contain the same chlorophyll but are much less IR reflective because they contain much less entrapped air. The reflectivity of grass and deciduous leaves is considerably reduced when they are wet after rain.

Add A Comment


XHTML RSS